If you're thinking about selling antique jewellery, you're in for a journey that's not just financially rewarding but also emotionally fulfilling. However, it's crucial to navigate this process with care. Antique jewellery is valued quite differently than modern pieces. Factors like craftsmanship, provenance, design era, and originality can weigh just as heavily as the metal's weight or the size of the stones.
So, if you're ready to take the plunge, here’s a guide to help you do it confidently, steer clear of common mistakes, and ensure you get a fair deal.
What exactly is “antique jewellery”?
In the UK, antique jewellery is generally considered to be at least 100 years old. If a piece is between 20 and 99 years old, it’s usually labelled as vintage, while anything from the last couple of decades falls into the modern category.
But age isn’t the only thing that influences value. Some more recent pieces can fetch impressive prices due to their designer appeal, rarity, or stunning gemstones.
Here are some common antique periods you might come across:
- Georgian (1714–1837): often rare, hand-crafted, and highly sought after
- Victorian (1837–1901): known for romantic motifs, intricate settings, and a variety of styles
- Edwardian (1901–1915): characterised by delicate, lace-like metalwork, often in platinum
- Art Deco (c. 1920–1935): recognised for bold geometric designs and lasting popularity
If you're uncertain about which era your piece belongs to, a skilled valuer can help you identify it by examining the style of the setting, hallmarks, stone cuts, and overall construction.
Step 1: Identify what you have
Before you sell, take some time to gather any information you might already possess:
- Hallmarks (often found inside rings or on bracelet clasps): these can reveal metal purity and sometimes even the date or location of origin
- Original boxes, receipts, or paperwork (these are helpful but not mandatory)
- Any family history: even the smallest details can enhance provenance
Be cautious about cleaning or polishing your pieces too aggressively. Antique jewellery often has a natural patina, and over-cleaning can diminish its appeal, especially if it alters the surface or harms delicate settings.
Step 2: Get to Know What Adds Value to Antique Jewellery
When it comes to pricing antique jewellery, things can get a bit tricky. A serious buyer usually takes several factors into account:
- Condition: Things like chips, cracks, wear on the claws, thinning shanks, and missing stones can really affect value.
- Originality: Buyers tend to prefer pieces with untouched settings and components that are true to their period.
- Gem Quality (if applicable): This includes clarity, colour, cut, and how the stone sparkles in the light.
- Craftsmanship and Rarity: Hand-made details can really drive up the price.
- Market Demand: Certain styles, like Art Deco and Edwardian pieces, are always in high demand.
It's important to remember that the value of antique jewellery isn't the same as its scrap value. Many pieces are worth much more than just the metal content because collectors are drawn to the design and the story behind them.
Step 3: Decide on the Best Way to Sell
In the UK, you typically have three main options to consider:
1) Private Sale
This route can yield a higher return, but it often takes longer and comes with its own set of risks. You might encounter timewasters, payment issues, and buyers who want extensive proof of authenticity.
2) Auction
Auctions can be a great fit for standout pieces, especially if they have a known history or strong period identity. Just keep in mind that seller fees apply, and the final price depends on the bidding that day.
3) Specialist Buyer or Jeweller
This is usually the simplest option. You’ll receive a professional appraisal, a clear offer, and a quicker process. It’s also a good choice if you value discretion and certainty, particularly for higher-value items.
Step 4: Obtain a Proper Valuation and Compare Offers
A solid valuation should explain why a piece is valued the way it is, rather than just throwing out a number. Ideally, it will distinguish between intrinsic value, like the fundamentals of metal and gemstones, and collectable value, which includes factors like period, design, rarity, and originality.
When comparing offers, ensure you’re looking at the same criteria. Focus on the outright purchase price instead of an estimated retail figure or a consignment estimate that might never come to fruition.
Step 5: Get Your Jewellery Ready for Assessment
You don’t have to do much, but a few simple steps can make a difference:
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Bring your piece in a pouch or box to keep it safe from damage.
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Make a note of any repairs you know about.
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If any stones feel loose, it’s best to avoid wearing it and have it assessed properly.
While photos can kick off the conversation, antique jewellery is best evaluated in person. The fine details of the setting and the unique characteristics of the gemstones are much easier to assess when the piece is examined up close.
Selling Antique Jewellery with Hatton Jewels
If you’re thinking about selling antique jewellery in London, Hatton Jewels in Hatton Garden is a great place to go. We regularly assess and buy antique and period jewellery. The process is straightforward and discreet, providing you with practical guidance so you can understand what you have and what your options are.
Whether you’re dealing with a single inherited ring or a small collection, the goal remains the same: get a professional assessment, choose the selling route that works for you, and secure a fair, informed offer.
