Natural pearls are among the rarest gems found in jewellery. Unlike cultured pearls, which are produced with human intervention, a natural pearl forms entirely by chance inside a mollusc, without any assistance from a pearl farmer.
The vast majority of pearls available today are cultured pearls. Genuine natural pearls are considerably rarer, and many of those appearing on the jewellery market today are found in antique and period pieces rather than newly produced jewellery.
For anyone who has inherited an old pearl necklace, earrings or another piece of antique jewellery, understanding exactly what type of pearls you have can make a considerable difference to its value.
What is a natural pearl?
A natural pearl forms when an irritant enters a mollusc naturally. The mollusc responds by gradually forming layers around it, eventually creating a pearl.
There is no implanted bead and no deliberate human intervention.
Cultured pearls are also genuine pearls, but their formation is intentionally started by introducing material into the mollusc. Modern pearl farming means cultured pearls can be produced relatively reliably and in substantial quantities.
Natural pearls are different because their formation is accidental. Historically, enormous numbers of oysters could be opened without finding a single worthwhile pearl.
This scarcity made natural pearls exceptionally valuable long before cultured pearls became commercially available in the early 20th century.
Can you tell a natural pearl by looking at it?
Not reliably.
Natural pearls can be round, oval, drop-shaped or distinctly baroque, but shape alone does not prove whether a pearl is natural. Equally, age is not enough: an antique piece can contain cultured pearls, particularly jewellery dating from the 20th century.
Specialist testing is often required.
X-radiography allows a gemmologist to examine the internal growth structure of a pearl without damaging it. Natural pearls typically show growth structures quite different from those seen in bead-cultured pearls.
This is particularly important with valuable jewellery. A laboratory report confirming that pearls are natural can have a significant impact on both buyer confidence and value.
What makes a natural pearl valuable?
There is no single price for a natural pearl. Several characteristics are considered together.
Size is important, with larger natural pearls becoming progressively rarer. Shape also matters: beautifully symmetrical drops and round pearls can be particularly desirable, although unusual baroque pearls can have considerable character and value in the right piece.
Lustre is another major consideration. Fine pearls have a depth and glow to their surface rather than simply appearing shiny.
Colour, surface quality and condition are also assessed. Where several pearls appear together, as in a pair of earrings or necklace, how well they match in size, colour and appearance can be particularly important.
The jewellery itself matters too. Age, craftsmanship, provenance and the accompanying gemstones can all contribute to the value of a finished piece.
A good example is our Antique Georgian Natural Pearl and Diamond Drop Earrings. Dating to circa 1890, they combine two baroque natural pearls with approximately 1.00ct of old European mine cut diamonds, set in yellow gold and silver. The irregularity of the pearls is part of what makes the earrings so distinctive.
Could old pearl jewellery be more valuable than you think?
Possibly.
Natural pearls are sometimes found in inherited jewellery where the owner has very little information about the piece. A necklace may simply have been described within the family as "Grandmother's pearls", with no certificate, receipt or record of when it was purchased.
It is therefore worth having older pearl jewellery properly assessed rather than assuming the pearls are cultured or imitation.
Do not worry if you have no paperwork. The jewellery itself can usually provide considerably more information once examined by an experienced specialist.
Selling natural pearls
Natural pearls require specialist knowledge to value correctly, and relatively few jewellery buyers in the UK actively purchase them.
Hatton Jewels is one of the few UK jewellery buyers specialising in the purchase and valuation of natural pearl jewellery, alongside antique jewellery, important gemstones and other exceptional pieces.
Our specialists can assess the pearls themselves as well as the age, construction, condition and wider value of the jewellery.
If you have inherited a natural pearl necklace, antique pearl earrings or another piece you believe may contain natural pearls, you can begin with our free jewellery valuation. Simply send us clear photographs and any information you have about the piece.
Certificates and original receipts are helpful where available, but they are not required. We can advise you on the next steps if further examination or testing is appropriate.
