Guide to Diamond Shapes

Few elements influence the personality of a diamond as much as its shape. Whether you're drawn to timeless elegance or contemporary flair, a diamond’s shape sets the tone for how it will look, feel, and ultimately, how it will be worn. From classic rounds to striking emeralds, understanding diamond shapes is key to choosing a stone that truly reflects your style.

What Is a Diamond Shape?

Diamond shape refers to the overall outline and style in which a diamond is cut. In their rough, natural state, diamonds are irregular and organic—so skilled cutters shape them into the refined, geometric forms we know and love today.

The most iconic of these is the round brilliant cut. All other shapes—such as oval, cushion, emerald, and princess—are known as fancy shapes. While each has its own appeal, diamond shapes generally fall into two main categories, 'step cut' and 'brilliant cut'

Step Cut vs. Brilliant Cut

The main difference lies in how each cut interacts with light.

Brilliant cuts, such as round, oval, and pear, are engineered to reflect the most light. Their multiple facets are angled to bounce and refract light, producing intense sparkle and fire.

Step cuts, like emerald and Asscher, focus less on sparkle and more on clarity and elegance. These cuts feature long, rectangular facets arranged in parallel steps, offering a subtle, mirror-like gleam and a vintage sophistication.

Our Popular Diamond Shapes

  • Round Brilliant

    The most classic and sparkly of all shapes, perfected for maximum brilliance and symmetry.

  • Oval

    Elegant and elongated, offering a flattering look and the illusion of greater size.

  • Emerald

    Sophisticated and sleek, showcasing step-cut facets that highlight clarity and depth.

  • Old Cut

    A hand-cut antique style found in vintage jewellery, known for its deep proportions, open culet, and soft, romantic glow.

  • 'Choosing a diamond shape is a very personal experience—each individual is naturally drawn to a stone that resonates with them. Fancy shaped diamonds can vary widely in appearance, so we work closely with clients to source the diamond that best suits their unique vision and style'

    Gemma Bentham, Bespoke Jewellery Expert

Most Sparkly Diamond Shapes

When it comes to brilliance and sparkle, nothing surpasses the round brilliant cut. Its 58 precisely arranged facets are designed for optimal light reflection, resulting in intense brightness and fire from every angle.

Other brilliant cut shapes—like oval, cushion, and pear—also offer beautiful sparkle, though slightly less symmetrical or intense than the round brilliant. Still, they bring a unique character and charm that appeals to many modern wearers.

If maximum sparkle is your priority, a round brilliant will always be the top performer.

Diamond Shapes That Look the Biggest

Some diamond shapes appear larger than others, even at the same carat weight. This is due them been less deep cuts, leading to a large Diamond surface.

The shapes that tend to look the biggest are Oval Cuts, Marquise Cuts and Pear-Shapes

Crucially, however, it does depend on the quality of the cutting of the stone, so is not always a definitive answer.

Other Diamond Shapes

  • Cushion

    Romantic and softly contoured, with a pillow-like shape that blends vintage and modern charm.

  • Pear

    A teardrop shape that combines round and marquise styles—graceful, unique, and elongating.

  • Marquise

    Dramatic and eye-catching, with pointed ends and a flattering length-to-width ratio.

  • Asscher

    A square step cut with cropped corners and a distinctive art-deco feel, admired for its symmetry and elegance.

Custom Cut Diamonds

If you’re looking to create a completely unique, bespoke ring, a custom cut diamond might be just what you need. These diamonds are cut specifically for you, crafted by master craftsmen who use their rare expertise to shape the stone to exact proportions and designs.

Custom cutting allows your diamond to fit perfectly with your vision—making your piece truly one of a kind.

Diamond shape is more than just an aesthetic—it influences how a stone reflects light, appears in size, and speaks to your personal style. While specifications like cut and clarity are important, there’s no substitute for seeing how a diamond makes you feel.

If you're uncertain, don't hesitate to seek advice. A knowledgeable professional can help you navigate the options, explain the differences, and guide you toward a shape that suits your taste, lifestyle, and budget.

Back to guides